[多图] Sept 13th, 2011 5700米Pungpa Ri ABC

id2zouying

9月13日

5700米Pungpa Ri ABC

9:30醒来的时候外面还是蓝蓝的天，地上盖着一层薄薄的雪。待我抹上防晒霜爬出帐篷，却已变成漫天乌云了。等我们慢慢悠悠地吃着早饭，云又升起消失 了。然而同时，脚下的山谷里确实黑压压一片乌云。真是瞬息万变呀！渐渐的，我们可以看到Pungpa Ri了，然后希夏邦马也显现出来。一上午，我们就那么直直地看着山，讨论路线。这里不是珠峰，没有事先设定好的线路让你沿着走。实际上，关于Pungpa Ri ，我们没有任何路线资料。首先，我们研究最全的下撤路线，然后再研究如何攀登，从上，从下，如何走最安全最便捷？

山脚下到处都是雪崩后留下的碎冰、雪块。山左边，到处是岩石；右边，是个大雪坡，一道鲜亮的雪崩断裂线从接近坡顶的地方横穿而过，下面还有很多并行的纵线自上而下辐射。仔细读每一个细节，你可以判断哪里常发生雪崩，哪里会有技术难度。从那面看都不容易！这样的登山可不再是像公园里游戏那么轻松的事了！如果单兵作战该如何上？两人绳组？更多的人？不同情形可能要选择不同的策略。记得去年登珠峰时觉得是意志的极大挑战，如今感觉更难了。完全要靠自己摸索的路线，没有协作，一切的风险度都更高了。我们就那么久久 地盯着山，努力记住线路上的每一块石头，每一个特征。

看那些石头山脊，至少也是5.8的难度吧？5.8在平地上只是个初级难度，但在7000-8000米，没有辅助氧气，几个5.8 的动作就能把你的力气耗尽。更何况，你还要穿着大羽绒服，戴着大手套，蹬着大大的登山靴和冰爪。

看那些易发生雪崩的地段，你必须以最快速度穿过。

用望远镜找了半天，偌大一片雪坡似乎找不到建临时营地的一方之地。

一天的漫长 时光就在听着音乐，沐浴着阳光，盯着登山路线中度过。看久了，我起身去散散步，寻找高山上那完美的花儿们。高山上的花儿们，她们一天要经历不知多少次冰、雪、阳光的轮转，难怪会有那样灿烂的颜色，独特的形状与性格。生存在这样的高海拔上，还有比她们更完美的吗？

午饭是2点，那时正好是最热的时候，然而当我们刚坐下来吃饭，太阳躲到了云后面，瞬间变得寒气刺骨。

我们大概对雪崩太敏感了。正吃着饭，忽然听到“轰”的一声，我们都抬起头来，“在哪儿？在哪儿？”然后开始怀疑：“怎么这么快就停了？”哈哈，才发现是帮我们做饭的协作刚点着了炉子！

我有勇气去尝试爬这座山吗？山不在高。一座小山的高难度路线可以比最高的山更有挑战性。我准备好了吗？

Sept 13th, 2011

5700m Pungpa Ri ABC

Wake up to blue sky, light snow cover at 9:30am. By the time I put on sunscreen to get out, it’s dark clouds all over already. As we sit down for our slow breakfast, clouds rise and disappear. Though down the valley, it’s still heavy dark clouds. Gradually, we can see clearly Pungpa Ri, then Shishsa. We just stared at it and talk about routes. It’s not like on Everest where you can just walk up the fixed line. Here, there’s no information on how to climb this mountain. First, we try to find the safest way to descend. Then, we try to figure out how to approach this mountain , from the bottom and near the top?

There are avalanche debris everywhere at foot of the hill. To the left side of the mountain, it’s full of ragged rock ridge. To the right, it’s a wide snow slope with a major rapture line from avalanche crossing the top part, then many parallel fall lines all across the face. Reading such feature, you could estimate where is prone to avalanche, where would be technically hard. No easy approach! Now this becomes the true mountaineering, not a game in the park anymore. How to climb it if we solo? Or if in pairs? Or if big party? Remember how Everest felt mentally hard last year? Now it’s a totally different game. It’s more serious, not counting on Sherpa, not counting on pre-set route. Even though we are a group, each of us needs to be self sufficient. We just stared at the mountain, trying to memorize each price of rock, trying to memorize each feature on the route.

Look at those rock ridges. It would be at least a 5.8 move there. 5.8 is nothing at sea level, but a couple such moves could kill your strength easily at 7000-8000m with no supplemental oxygen. And imagine how you are going to move with big down suit, big gloves, and crampons.

Look at avalanche zone. There you need to run non-stop.

Through binocular, hard to find a bivy spot on the steep slope.

Listening to music, sun bathing, staring at the route, too much time to kill. I took a walk to look for perfect flower. It’s amazing how perfect their shapes/colors can be at this altitude. High mountain flowers, they go through so many cycles of ice, snow, sun in a day. No wonder each of them has sharp color/shape and personality.

Lunch time 2pm. Too hot to stay in tent, but as I just came out for lunch, sun hid away and it became chilly cloudy again.

We were so sensitive to the sound of avalanche. While we were eating, we suddenly heard a bursting “hong”! We all looked up “where? Where?” Then felt suspicious “ how can it end so fast?” it’s just the cook lighting up stove!

Do I have the courage for this climb? Though by altitude, it’s only 7400s. Height of mountain is for people reading newspaper. For the mountaineers, the difference is the route. A hard route on a small hill can be harder than an easy route on the highest mountain. Am I ready?

熏衣草

好PP

匡爷

漂亮 羡慕嫉妒恨 各种心情:lol

随遇而安

很美 雪山 那么寒冷的地方也有植物厉害

好友同行

我觉得只要站在山脚下就是英雄！:)

爱你就好

美

雪岩

欣赏~期待后面的pp

左半边翅膀

真漂亮

爱山之人

beautiful.

id2zouying

:)

id2zouying

:lol漂亮

烟的寂寞

咣咣的漂亮，向不屈不挠挑战极限的人，致敬:victory:

跑得快

真厉害，崇拜+膜拜！

id2zouying

:loveliness:太美了，羡慕

隐约的紫

美，非常美。
祝登山者们好运气！

梅子

仰望中！哪个是雪莲？

雪梨

欣赏

豆豆

好震撼，尤其是山上的植物。

骆驼

好美的花儿！

百山祖风光

山很美

独白

很特别的花儿

车水马龙

高山、白雪、雪莲真的是美不胜收。　

洛阳城下

好漂亮的花啊，毛茸茸的，真可爱

申城悲人

它的美，震惊

风中女孩

太美了

大愚若智

先玩简单的，以后有机会也去

美丽好心情

介都是强驴路线啊

id2zouying

:lol

路上的小路

花很美，晶莹剔透，，，

美丽好心情

beautiful.